How to eliminate Fabric Shade Variation in Garments

Shade variation in garments is caused mainly due to fabric problem. Fabrics are dyed in dyeing machine that has a certain capacity of dyeing fabrics at a time. So, where fabrics are dyed in multiple lots, there is chance of having shade variation between different fabric lots if dyeing process is not controlled.

Shade variation in fabric may appear as

• Within same fabric roll there may be shade variation like 'center to selvage' and 'salvage to salvage'
• Within same fabric roll length wise shade variation 
• Shade variation in between fabric rolls

Shade variation in garments (between different components of the same garment) can be controlled if a SOP is set and employees follow that SOP to reduce shade variation in garments. From fabric inspection to garment finishing in each step you have to be pro-active and take action to prevent shade variation in finished garments.



Tips to reduce and control shade variation in garments:

1. Fabric inspection: Whether it is in-house dyeing or dyed fabric from outside processors, all fabric rolls need to inspect for shade variation. Categorize fabric rolls based on fabric shades.  If there is a wide range of shade variation and fabric shade is out of the standard one, you can reject that lot and sent back rejected to your fabric processors for re-processing.

2. Preparing Shade band: Develop shade bands and get approval for all shade bands you have in your bulk fabric. Mark shade band no. to each fabric roll / than. Shade bands help in fabric layering and shorting in cutting room.

3. Communicate with clear information: When you have an order with varied shades of fabrics, information must be shared with cutting department as well as production department. While issuing fabric to cutting, intimate cutting department that fabric has different shades and fabric lots should not be get mixed.

4. Fabric layering: As advised in point#2, you have to categorize rolls according to shade band. While spreading fabrics for cutting, spread fabrics of same shade band no. in a lay. Don't mix fabrics roll of different shades. When you need to spread fabric of another shade on the same lay place separator to identify cutting of different rolls easily at the time of shorting and bundling. 

5. Marker placement: In case fabric has shade variation of 'center to selvage' and 'side to side' place garment pattern on the fabric layer in such a way that shade variation would not be prominent (visible) in garment. Like you can set markers as 'one garment one side' and 'side to side' marker

6. Numbering of layers: Use ply numbering system and number all garment components. Like, all components of a garment should have same sequence number. In case you spread fabrics of multiple lots in a same lay (cut) use separator for each rolls/ lots. Then while you make bundles make separate bundles for each lots/rolls 

7. Bundle movement in sewing: After following above steps strictly, one even have shade variation in garment if bundles are not maintained in sewing lines. Sewing operators need to close bundles after completing sewing of a bundle. Ensure that when operators join two component they should check ply number on sticker and sew component with same ply numbers.

8. Replace defective garment part: Check garment component shade variation at the end of line inspection (at the end of sewing process). Garments found with fabric shade variation (varied shade of different components if that is not a design feature) need to be separated from the good garments. Later defective garments (due to shade variation) can be corrected by replacing parts. For the part changing, be careful to cut parts from the matching lots. 

9. Single piece garment bundling: If you can't stop ply mixing in sewing you can introduce single piece bundle system in production. In this system, there is no way to sew garment components form different fabric plies. I am not suggesting you to change your bundling system but just showing you an option for getting rid off shade variation problem in finished garments. 

Above steps are not difficult to implement in garment production. Try it yourself and share with us how you have improved and handled shade variation issue in your factory.

 Collected By: Md. Tarikul Islam

                         01912885383

                         jonytex073@gmail.com

5 most visible reasons that cause the delay in shipment.

Making a plan and execution of the plan is ‘must do’ task to meet the lead time. As a standard procedure factories make plans and do extensive follow up of tasks. Still factories do not meet their target dates for final inspection and fail to ship good on agreed shipment date. In this article I have explained the 5 most visible reasons that cause the delay in shipment.

1. Product development and Sampling: Product development and sampling stage fall under pre-production processes. Other pre-production processes include sample approvals, finalising vendors and cost negotiation with raw material suppliers. Most of the factories do not consider including development stage schedule under plan. It results no control on pre-production processes. It goes long and long. When sample approval gets detailed, consequentially ordering of trims and fabric get delayed. A complete plan is done when you include sampling plan under your planning. Out of total lead time most part is consumed by pre-production functions. As a result planned cut date (PCD) gets postponed. 
2. Delay in sourcing of raw material: Normally factory planner discuss with supplier about their lead time for sourcing goods such as fabric and trims prior to making the final production scheduling. Suppliers fail to send good on time due to too many uncertainties. Sourcing delays also consumed extra time and make it difficult to start in-house processes on time. Few export houses experienced that yet after loading of cutting and stitching, trims such as care label, laces or main label are yet to be sourced. Partly stitched garments start piling up in the line and line supervisor load another style keeping running style aside from the line until they receive trims. How many factories can manage delay in such situation? 
3. Inferior quality in sourced goods: Fabrics, trims and accessories get in-housed at last. Goods are passed through quality checks before using in product or cutting. Unorganised factories mostly source fabric from power loom and face quality related problem. It may be shade variation/matching, wrong GSM quality, low quality print etc. If an inferior quality of raw material found, fabrics are send for re-processing or resourcing. It causes further day in PCD. 
4. Production urgency: Pressure and urgency increases when factory starts production processes (such as cutting, preparatory and sewing), as order has already eaten up bigger part of total time scheduled for the production processes (production to finishing). Not having much time on hand, managers push everything on fast pace. They even push their whole team on quantity production. In this stage they forget to care of quality of the product. Once they start ignoring standard procedures they get stuck on stitching quality or related problem rises. Repair and re-inspection become a main process. These process increases production time. 
5. Delay from Sub-contracting Jobs: For high fashion product, few value added processes such as panel printing, embroidery, bead work or dyeing are needed. For these value added processes factory normally send fabric or half stitch garment to sub-contractors for job-works. Sub-contractors also come with their big commitments on delivery and quality. But when factory receives goods, they had to count some more days on their delays. This happen due to absence of planning at subcontractor factory.
   Prepared By: Md. Tarikul Islam
                           01912885383
                            jonytex073@gmail.com