Showing posts with label DYEING. Show all posts
Showing posts with label DYEING. Show all posts

Monday, 25 July 2016

How to eliminate Fabric Shade Variation in Garments





Shade variation in garments is caused mainly due to fabric problem. Fabrics are dyed in dyeing machine that has a certain capacity of dyeing fabrics at a time. So, where fabrics are dyed in multiple lots, there is chance of having shade variation between different fabric lots if dyeing process is not controlled.

Shade variation in fabric may appear as
  • Within same fabric roll there may be shade variation like 'center to selvage' and 'salvage to salvage'
  • Within same fabric roll length wise shade variation 
  • Shade variation in between fabric rolls

Shade variation in garments (between different components of the same garment) can be controlled if a SOP is set and employees follow that SOP to reduce shade variation in garments. From fabric inspection to garment finishing in each step you have to be pro-active and take action to prevent shade variation in finished garments.



Tips to reduce and control shade variation in garments:

  1. Fabric inspection: Whether it is in-house dyeing or dyed fabric from outside processors, all fabric rolls need to inspect for shade variation. Categorize fabric rolls based on fabric shades.  If there is a wide range of shade variation and fabric shade is out of the standard one, you can reject that lot and sent back rejected to your fabric processors for re-processing.

  1. Preparing Shade band: Develop shade bands and get approval for all shade bands you have in your bulk fabric. Mark shade band no. to each fabric roll / than. Shade bands help in fabric layering and shorting in cutting room.

  1. Communicate with clear information: When you have an order with varied shades of fabrics, information must be shared with cutting department as well as production department. While issuing fabric to cutting, intimate cutting department that fabric has different shades and fabric lots should not be get mixed.

  1. Fabric layering: As advised in point#2, you have to categorize rolls according to shade band. While spreading fabrics for cutting, spread fabrics of same shade band no. in a lay. Don't mix fabrics roll of different shades. When you need to spread fabric of another shade on the same lay place separator to identify cutting of different rolls easily at the time of shorting and bundling. 

  1. Marker placement: In case fabric has shade variation of 'center to selvage' and 'side to side' place garment pattern on the fabric layer in such a way that shade variation would not be prominent (visible) in garment. Like you can set markers as 'one garment one side' and 'side to side' marker

  1. Numbering of layers: Use ply numbering system and number all garment components. Like, all components of a garment should have same sequence number. In case you spread fabrics of multiple lots in a same lay (cut) use separator for each rolls/ lots. Then while you make bundles make separate bundles for each lots/rolls 

  1. Bundle movement in sewing: After following above steps strictly, one even have shade variation in garment if bundles are not maintained in sewing lines. Sewing operators need to close bundles after completing sewing of a bundle. Ensure that when operators join two component they should check ply number on sticker and sew component with same ply numbers.

  1. Replace defective garment part: Check garment component shade variation at the end of line inspection (at the end of sewing process). Garments found with fabric shade variation (varied shade of different components if that is not a design feature) need to be separated from the good garments. Later defective garments (due to shade variation) can be corrected by replacing parts. For the part changing, be careful to cut parts from the matching lots. 

  1. Single piece garment bundling: If you can't stop ply mixing in sewing you can introduce single piece bundle system in production. In this system, there is no way to sew garment components form different fabric plies. I am not suggesting you to change your bundling system but just showing you an option for getting rid off shade variation problem in finished garments. 
Above steps are not difficult to implement in garment production. Try it yourself and share with us how you have improved and handled shade variation issue in your factory.

 Collected By: Md. Tarikul Islam
                         01912885383
                         jonytex073@gmail.com

Sunday, 13 December 2015

Basic Compliance for Textile professional.

Compliance

As a textile professional , we should know at least the basic compliance. May be the below article will be helpful for you    

1.       What is compliance?

Answer: Compliance means to complain with. Industrial compliance means to complain with specific resolution or requirement stated by the land of law or by the customer against for work environment, safety, working hours which is mandatory benefits, hygiene & cleaning work resolution etc.

2. Some health and safety issue

Health-
a.       Cleanliness
b.      Drinking water
c.       Overcrowding
d.      Lighting
e.       Latrines and urinals
f.       Dustbins and spittoons
Safety-
a.       Fire
b.      Floors, stairs and means of access
c.       Excessive weights
d.      Safety of building and machineries
e.       Fencing of machinery
f.       Work on neat machinery on motion
g.       Explosive or inflammable dust or gas
h.      Precautions against dangerous fumes
i.        Personal protective equipment
j.        Risk assessment and prevention
     
3. Section wise working hour standard requirements as per law-

Answer:

Daily hours

Section 100 makes a provision of 8 working hours a day for an adult worker, but an adult worker may work 10 hours a day provided all the conditions of section 108 have been fulfilled. According to that section, the employer is required to pay the worker, overtime, double the rate of her/his usual wages i.e. basic & dearness allowance, if any. The employer is also required to maintain an overtime register as per the law.

 Section 101 wise, Interval for rest is provided in the following manner:
1. One hour interval for rest or meal for six hours of work;
2. Half an hour interval for rest or meal for 5 hours of work.

Weekly hours

Section 102, The new law makes a provision of total 48 (forty eight) working hours for a worker, but it can be extended up to sixty hours, subject to the payment of overtime allowances as per section 108 of the law. However, an average of 56 working hours per week in a year for a labor must not be exceeded under any circumstances. But the new law makes a provision for exemption approved by the government if it thinks so fit.

4. How many holiday as per law?

Answer:


Section 103 of the new labor code makes the provision of one day weekly holiday for all the workers employed in a factory.
i. For adult workers, one day for every 18 (eighteen) days of work performed by her/him during the previous twelve months; (This is called earn leave.)
ii. For adolescent worker, one day for every 15 (fifteen) days of work performed by her/him during the previous twelve months.

Leave opportunity 

Festival holiday: FL
a)      Every worker shall be entitled to eleven days festival-leave for every calendar year. The employer shall, at the beginning of the year, fix the day and date of such leaves.
b)      The employer may require any worker to work on a festival holiday provided that two days additional compensatory holidays with full pay and one alternative holiday should be given to her/him under section 103.

Casual leave: CL
The new labor law Section 115, of deals with the provisions for casual leave of a worker. It makes a provision for 10 days casual leave with full wages.

Sick leave: SL
All workers employed in a factory shall be entitled to get 14 (fourteen) days sick leave with full average wages. Provided, such a leave shall not be granted unless a Registered Physician employed by the employer or any other Registered Physician has certified her/his illness.


6. Requirement consider for fire safety
Answer:

  1. At least one alternative exit with staircases connecting all the floors.
  2. No door affording exit can be locked or fastened during the working hours.
  3.  There shall be an effective and clearly audible means of fire-warning system to every worker.
  4. There shall be a free passage-way giving access to each means to escape.
  5. There shall be at least one fire-extinction parade.
Prepared By: Md. Tarikul Islam
                        01912885383
                         jonytex073@gmail.com

Tuesday, 8 December 2015

50 COMMON INTERVIEW QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS

As a textile professional you may face many interviews.Now a days interview patterns are changing.
Review these typical interview questions and think about how you would answer them. Read the questions listed; you will also find some strategy suggestions with it.

1. Tell me about yourself:
The most often asked question in interviews. You need to have a short statement prepared in your mind. Be careful that it does not sound rehearsed. Limit it to work-related items unless instructed otherwise. Talk about things you have done and jobs you have held that relate to the position you are interviewing for. Start with the item farthest back and work up to the present.

2. Why did you leave your last job?
Stay positive regardless of the circumstances. Never refer to a major problem with management and never speak ill of supervisors, co-workers or the organization. If you do, you will be the one looking bad. Keep smiling and talk about leaving for a positive reason such as an opportunity, a chance to do something special or other forward-looking reasons.

3. What experience do you have in this field?
Speak about specifics that relate to the position you are applying for. If you do not have specific experience, get as close as you can.

4. Do you consider yourself successful?
You should always answer yes and briefly explain why. A good explanation is that you have set goals, and you have met some and are on track to achieve the others.

5. What do co-workers say about you?
Be prepared with a quote or two from co-workers. Either a specific statement or a paraphrase will work. Jill Clark, a co-worker at Smith Company, always said I was the hardest workers she had ever known. It is as powerful as Jill having said it at the interview herself.

6. What do you know about this organization?
This question is one reason to do some research on the organization before the interview. Find out where they have been and where they are going. What are the current issues and who are the major players?

7. What have you done to improve your knowledge in the last year?
Try to include improvement activities that relate to the job. A wide variety of activities can be mentioned as positive self-improvement. Have some good ones handy to mention.

8. Are you applying for other jobs?
Be honest but do not spend a lot of time in this area. Keep the focus on this job and what you can do for this organization. Anything else is a distraction.
9. Why do you want to work for this organization?
on the organization. Sincerity is extremely important here and will easily be sensed. Relate it to your long-term career goals.

10. Do you know anyone who works for us?
Be aware of the policy on relatives working for the organization. This can affect your answer even though they asked about friends not relatives. Be careful to mention a friend only if they are well thought of.

11. What kind of salary do you need?
A loaded question. A nasty little game that you will probably lose if you answer first. So, do not answer it. Instead, say something like, That's a tough question. Can you tell me the range for this position? In most cases, the interviewer, taken off guard, will tell you. If not, say that it can depend on the details of the job. Then give a wide range.

12. Are you a team player?
You are, of course, a team player. Be sure to have examples ready. Specifics that show you often perform for the good of the team rather than for yourself are good evidence of your team attitude. Do not brag, just say it in a matter-of-fact tone. This is a key point.
13. How long would you expect to work for us if hired?
Specifics here are not good. Something like this should work: I'd like it to be a long time. Or As long as we both feel I'm doing a good job.

14. Have you ever had to fire anyone? How did you feel about that?
This is serious. Do not make light of it or in any way seem like you like to fire people. At the same time, you will do it when it is the right thing to do. When it comes to the organization versus the individual who has created a harmful situation, you will protect the organization.
Remember firing is not the same as layoff or reduction in force.

15. What is your philosophy towards work?
The interviewer is not looking for a long or flowery dissertation here. Do you have strong feelings that the job gets done? Yes. That's the type of answer that works best here. Short and positive, showing a benefit to the organization.

16. If you had enough money to retire right now, would you?
Answer yes if you would. But since you need to work, this is the type of work you prefer. Do not say yes if you do not mean it.

17. Have you ever been asked to leave a position?
If you have not, say no. If you have, be honest, brief and avoid saying negative things about the people or organization involved.

18. Explain how you would be an asset to this organization
You should be anxious for this question. It gives you a chance to highlight your best points as they relate to the position being discussed. Give a little advance thought to this relationship.

19. Why should we hire you?
Point out how your assets meet what the organization needs. Do not mention any other candidates to make a compare.

20. Tell me about a suggestion you have made
Have a good one ready. Be sure and use a suggestion that was accepted and was then considered successful. One related to the type of work applied for is a real plus.

21. What irritates you about co-workers?
This is a trap question. Think real hard but fail to come up with anything that irritates you. A short statement that you seem to get along with folks is great.
22. What is your greatest strength?

Numerous answers are good, just stay positive. A few good examples: Your ability to prioritize, Your problem-solving skills, Your ability to work under pressure, Your ability to focus on projects, Your professional expertise, Your leadership skills, Your
positive attitude .
23. Tell me about your dream job.
Stay away from a specific job. You cannot win. If you say the job you are contending for is it, you strain credibility. If you say another job is it, you plant the suspicion that you will be dissatisfied with this position if hired. The best is to stay genetic and say something like: A job where I love the work, like the people, can contribute and can't wait to get to work.

24. Why do you think you would do well at this job?
Give several reasons and include skills, experience and interest.

25. What are you looking for in a job?
See answer # 23

26. What kind of person would you refuse to work with?
Do not be trivial. It would take disloyalty to the organization, violence or lawbreaking to get you to object. Minor objections will label you as a whiner.

27. What is more important to you: the money or the work?
Money is always important, but the work is the most important. There is no better answer.

28. What would your previous supervisor say your strongest point is?
There are numerous good possibilities: Loyalty, Energy, Positive attitude, Leadership, Team player, Expertise, Initiative, Patience, Hard work, Creativity, Problem solver

29. Tell me about a problem you had with a supervisor
Biggest trap of all. This is a test to see if you will speak ill of your boss. If you fall for it and tell about a problem with a former boss, you may well below the interview right there. Stay positive and develop a poor memory about any trouble with a supervisor.

30. What has disappointed you about a job?
Don't get trivial or negative. Safe areas are few but can include: Not enough of a challenge. You were laid off in a reduction Company did not win a contract,
which would have given you more responsibility.

31. Tell me about your ability to work under pressure.
You may say that you thrive under certain types of pressure. Give an example that relates to the type of position applied for.

32. Do your skills match this job or another job more closely?
Probably this one. Do not give fuel to the suspicion that you may want another job more than this one.

33. What motivates you to do your best on the job?
This is a personal trait that only you can say, but good examples are: Challenge, Achievement, Recognition

34. Are you willing to work overtime? Nights? Weekends?
This is up to you. Be totally honest.

35. How would you know you were successful on this job?
Several ways are good measures: You set high standards for yourself and meet them. Your outcomes are a success. Your boss tell you that you are successful.

36. Would you be willing to relocate if required?
You should be clear on this with your family prior to the interview if you think there is a chance it may come up. Do not say yes just to get the job if the real answer is no. This can create a lot of problems later on in your career. Be honest at this point and save yourself future grief.

37. Are you willing to put the interests of the organization ahead of your own?
This is a straight loyalty and dedication question. Do not worry about the deep ethical and philosophical implications. Just say yes.

38. Describe your management style.
Try to avoid labels. Some of the more common labels, like progressive, salesman or consensus, can have several meanings or descriptions depending on which management expert you listen to. The situational style is safe, because it says you will manage according to the situation, instead of one size fits all.

39. What have you learned from mistakes on the job?
Here you have to come up with something or you strain credibility. Make it small, well intentioned mistake with a positive lesson learned. An example would be working too far ahead of colleagues on a project and thus throwing coordination off.

40. Do you have any blind spots?
Trick question. If you know about blind spots, they are no longer blind spots. Do not reveal any personal areas of concern here. Let them do their own discovery on your bad points. Do not hand it to them.

41. If you were hiring a person for this job, what would you look for?
Be careful to mention traits that are needed and that you have.

42. Do you think you are overqualified for this position?
Regardless of your qualifications, state that you are very well qualified for the position.

43. How do you propose to compensate for your lack of experience?
First, if you have experience that the interviewer does not know about, bring that up: Then, point out (if true) that you are a hard working quick learner.
44. What qualities do you look for in a boss?
Be generic and positive. Safe qualities are knowledgeable, a sense of humor, fair, loyal to subordinates and holder of high standards. All bosses think they have these traits.

45. Tell me about a time when you helped resolve a dispute between others.
Pick a specific incident. Concentrate on your problem solving technique and not the dispute you settled.

46. What position do you prefer on a team working on a project?
Be honest. If you are comfortable in different roles, point that out.

47. Describe your work ethic.
Emphasize benefits to the organization. Things like, determination to get the job done and work hard but enjoy your work are good.

48. What has been your biggest professional disappointment?
Be sure that you refer to something that was beyond your control. Show acceptance and no negative feelings.

49. Tell me about the most fun you have had on the job.
Talk about having fun by accomplishing something for the organization.

50. Do you have any questions for me?

Always have some questions prepared. Questions prepared where you will be an asset to the organization are good. How soon will I be able to be productive and What type of projects will I be able to assist on? 

Prepared  By: Md. Tarikul Islam
                        01912885383
                         jonytex073@gmail.com

Monday, 7 December 2015

Which are the major dyeing faults and what are their remedies?


Dyeing Faults and Remedies


1.Snagging:

Definition:-
·       Snagging appears on the knitted fabric surface, as a pulled up yarn float, showing up in a form of a large loop.
Causes:-
·       Cause by the pulling or the plucking of yarn from the surface, by the sharp objects.
Remedies:-
·       Inspect & rectify the fabric contact points on all machines ( Soft flow dyeing , Tumble dryer  & Centrifuge etc). On which Snagging is making.

2. Bowing:
Definition:-
·       Bowing appears as, rows of courses or yarn dyed stripes, forming a curb shape as bow, along the fabric width.
Causes:-
·       Uneven distribution of tensions across the fabric width while dyeing or finishing the fabric.
Remedies:-
·       Bowing can be corrected, by reprocessing of the fabric, by feeding it from the opposite end.
·       A special machine (MAHLO) is also available for correcting the bowing in the knitted fabrics, which set in the stenter machines.

3. Curling the edge of single jersey / Lycra single jersey fabric:
Definition:-
·       When the single jersey/ lycra single jersey fabrics laying on the table the both side salvage may be curling (rope).
Causes:-
·       Dimensional instability of the single jersey knitted fabrics.
·       The face side of the fabric has loops; whereas the back side has only yarn floats, so there is an imbalance between the face & back side of the fabric.
Remedies:-
·       Gumming of both edges of the single jersey fabrics, while stentering can be control the curling.
4.  Measurement Problems:-
Definition:-
a).The measurements of the garments totally changed after a few hours of relaxation or after the first wash. The sleeve length or body length /body front or back length may be variation due to insufficient relaxation/shrinkage / steam iron or part mistake.
Causes:-
a).Shrinkage caused due to inadequate relaxation of the knitted fabrics, before cutting.
b).Mixing of the garments parts cut from different layers or different rolls.
Remedies:-
a).Let the fabrics relax for 6th-12th hours in the roll open relaxed condition, before cutting. Especially LYCRA fabrics.
b).Use a trolley for laying the fabrics on the table to facilitate a tension free laying.
c).Ensure the numbering or gassetsystem, so that we prevent the lay or body mixed up.        

5. Folding marks:

Definition:
·       Folding marks appear as distinct pressure marks, along the length of the fabric.
Causes:-
·       High pressure of the fabric take down rollers of the knitting machine, on grey fabric is one of the main causes.
·       Too much pressure of the feeding rolls of the calendar & compactor is the primary causes folding marks in the knitting fabric.
Remedies:-
·       Adjust the gap between two rolls, as per thickness of the fabrics.(mainly in Pique, S/J, etc.).
·       Gap between two rolls of the compactor/calendar should be just enough, to let the rolls remove, the wrinkles in the fabric, but put no pressure on the fabric, especially in case of PIQUE & SINGLE JERSEY fabric.


6.   GSM Variation:-

Definition:

·       The fabric will appear to have a visible variation in density, from roll to roll or within the same roll of the same dye lot.
Causes:-
·     Roll to roll variation in the process parameters, of the fabric, like over feed &width wise stretching of the dyed fabric, on the stenter, compactor or calendar machines.
·       Roll to roll variation in the fabric stitch length.
Remedies:-
·       Make sure that all the rolls in a  lot, are processed under the same process parameters.
·       The knitting machine setting, like; the quality pulley diameter etc. should never be disturbed.
 7.  Fabric width Variation:-
Definition:
·       Different rolls of the same fabric lot, having difference in the finished width of the fabric.
Causes:-
·       Grey fabric of the same lot, knitted on different makes of knitting machines, having varying number of Needles in the cylinder.
·       Roll to roll difference, in the dyed fabric stretched width, while feeding the fabric on the stenter, compactor or calendar.

·       9The whole lot of grey fabric should be knitted on the same make of knitting machines.
·       For same gauge & diameter of the knitting machines, there can be a difference as high as 40 needles  from one make to other make of the machine, these difference of up to 2”-3” Finished DIA( + or –) of the fabrics.
·       During stenter&finishing, the stretched width of the fabrics should be remaining constant.

8. Stains:

Definition:-
·       Stains appear as a spots or patches, of grease, oil or dyes of different color, in a neat & clean finished fabric’s surface. It is a common defect.

Causes:-
·       Dyeing machine do not cleaned thoroughly, after dyeing a lot.
·       Grease, oil & rust stains from unguarded moving machine’s parts like; Gears, Shafts, Driving pulls& Trolley wheels, and irons plates.
·       During transportation, fabric touched in the floor or soiled/dirty places.
·       Handling of the fabric, with dirty hands or stepping into the stored fabric with dirty feet or shoes on.
Remedies:
·       After dyeing the machine should be wash & clean properly.
·       Follow the dyeing cycle of LIGHT-MEDIUM- DARK shades & then reverse the cycle, while dyeing the fabrics.
·       All the lubricated machine parts should be protected, with safety guards.
·       Make sure that the fabrics is neatly packed or covered by clean polythene, while storeing.

·       Handle the fabric with carefully, with clean hands, do not step on the fabric.

9.  High Shrinkage:

 Definition:-
·       The original intended measurements of the garments go , haywire, during storage or after a very first wash.

Causes:-
·       High stresses & strains exerted on the fabric, during knitting, dyeing & processing and the fabric not being allowed to relax properly.
·       High shrinkage is primarily due to the high tension, during knitting, dyeing and the finishing processes.

Remedies:
·       Keep the grey fabric in loose plated form, immediately after the roll cut.
·       Store the finished fabric also in the plated form not roll form.
·       Before cut the fabric must be relax properly.
·       Give maximum overfeed to the fabric, during processing, on the Stenter, Compactor the Calendaring machines.

10. Surface Hairiness & Piling:-

Definition:-
·       Surface hairiness appears in the form of excess superfluous fibers, on the surface of the knitted fabrics, which have either been reprocessed, or tumble dried.
·       Piling appears as small fiber balls formed on the fabric surface, due to the entanglement of the loose surface fibers.
·       Factor such as, the fiber staple length, low T.P.M. & fabric construction (With long yarn floats) etc. also contribute to piling.
Causes:- 
·       Abrasion due to the contract with rough surfaces.
·       Excessive surface hairiness caused, due to the abrasive tumbling action (Fabric friction in the tumble dryer).
·       Rough dyeing process and abrasive machine surface (Soft flow machine tubes, Tumble dryer drum etc).
·       Reprocessing of the fabric is, also a major cause of piling.
Remedies:-
·       Avoid using Tumble dryer.
·       Control shrinkage by maximum fabric relaxation& over feed in the processing.
·       Regularly inspect the fabric contact points on all the machines, for any rough and sharp surface. And rectify.
·       Avoid repeated reprocessing of the fabric.

Use anti piling agent for the fabrics, prone to piling.

 Collected  By: Md. Tarikul Islam
                        01912885383
                         jonytex073@gmail.com