General Sewing Fault, Cause and their Remedies

Sewing Fault and Remedies

Slipped stitch:

Stitches in the seam are present in a regular wise. If the interloping or interlacing between top & bottom thread of stitch is not take place or missed is known as slipped stitch or skipped stitch. This is more harmful in case of chain stitch than lock stitch. The following are the causes and remedies of slipped stitch formation given by a table.

No	Cause	Remedies
01	If hook or looper & needle are not inserted in loop of thread in time.	Examine the setting and timing between needle and hook or looped. Placing of needle properly. More secured needle should be used.
02	Irregular thread tension on upper or lower loop.	The tension of thread should again be adjusted.
03	Due to needle deflection.	Needle to be changed.
04	If needle thread loop size is too small.	Needle size & thread size must be adjusted.
05	When flagging of fabrics during sewing is happened.	The pressure of pressure foot must be adjusted accurately. The hole of throat plate & needle size must be adjusted.

Staggered stitch:

If the stitches produced by needle are not parallel or become curvy to sewing line is known as staggered stitch. The following are the causes and remedies of staggered stitch formation given by a table:

No.	Causes	Remedies
01	Needle deflection	Increases the needle size. Tapered needle should be used.
02	Due to wrong or blunt needle point.	Needle to be changed
03	Wrong adjustment of needle & thread size.	Needle size and thread size should be changed.
04	Defected motion of feed dog.	Motion of feed dog to be adjusted.
05	If fabrics are not controlled properly in the feed mechanism.	The pressure of pressure foot must be adjusted accurately. Feed mechanism to be changed.

Unbalanced Stitch:

This type of defect is found in lock stitch machine. If the interlace of thread are not taken place in the middle (i.e. if the interlace is taken place in the upper or lower position from the middle) of two layers of fabrics then it is known as Unbalanced stitch. The following are the causes and remedies of unbalanced stitch formation given by a table:

No.	Causes	Remedies
01	Wrong tension of sewing thread	Setting of proper tension to the sewing threads. Proper care to the twisting of thread during sewing.
02	Used wrong thread path.	Use of right thread path.
03	Wrong adjustment of needle thread path.	Use of right thread path.
04	Snagging of needle with bobbin case & positioning finger.	Bobbin case to be smooth. The positioning finger to be set again.
05	If the threads are not lubricated.	Better qualities threads must be used.

Frequent thread Breakage:

This is the breakage of thread again and again during sewing. And also, there needs more time and which is harmful for production.  Especially when there needs to open out of sewing to solve the problem. The following are the causes and remedies of frequent thread breakage formation given by a table.

No	Causes	Remedies
01	Wrong winding of threads on to the bobbin.	Proper winding of threads on to the bobbin. Pre-wound bobbin may be used.
02	More tension to the bobbin threads or more rotating of bobbin.	The tension must be adjusted to the bobbin threads. Use of washer to prevent the more rotating of bobbin.
03	If the edges bobbin case, lopper eye and so on are more sharpened.	The edges to be smooth.
04	Wrong fitting of bobbin case.	Examine the size and type of bobbin. Examine the damaging of bobbin case.

Problems of puckers:

Unwanted waviness of the fabric along the seam line is called seam pucker. This may be apparent immediately after sewing or it may develop in later in use. Most of the times, sewing threads are referred as the responsible for seam pucker. But without sewing threads, there are so many reasons for occurring seam pucker. Such as fabric structure, seam structure, needle size, feeding problem, uneven thread tension and so on. This can be seen after sewing and sometimes after washing of garments. There is a great possibility of seeing seam pucker in case of more piles of fabrics sewing together. The following are the main reason of occurring seam pucker.

1.      Variable or uneven stretch on fabric plies:

●There is a great possibility of seeing seam pucker in case of more piled of fabrics sewing together.

● Due to variable stretch on fabric piles they will not feed equally to sewing m/c & create seam pucker.

● this type of pucker is seen for the limitation of feed mechanism.

2.      Fabric dimensional instability:

● If the shrinkage of sewn fabric piles are not same or equal than seam pucker will create after washing.

● To avoid this. It must be know the shrinkage property of different types of fabrics before sewing.

● If the shrinkage percentage of area of two pieces fabrics is more than 2, then seam pucker will occur after sewing the fabrics together.

      3.   Sewing threads shrinkage:

● Due to variable shrinkage percentage of sewing thread & fabric, seam pucker will create after washing or ironing.

● To protect this. It must know about the shrinkage percentage of fabric & thread before selection to sew.

● There is less possibility of occurring seam pucker when sewing is done by synthetic threads due to less shrinkage percentage of them.

 Prepared By: Md. Tarikul Islam

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